After many happy miles, I’ve properly broken in my Yamaha TW200. I love the bike!
Part of the fun is that I’m not fretting about it. I just ride it into, over, through, or around anything… and if I smash directly into it… well that’s ok too. Suppose I had something like a big sexy BMW dual sport… a machine I lusted after for many years. BMW makes some of the coolest bikes out there and they can run rings around a TW on pavement without breaking a sweat. However, a BMW is also a payment inducing conglomeration of complex shit. All of it is as expensive to fix as it would be annoying to diagnose. The TW, by comparison, has the complexity of a potato. Not much can break and what can break is cheap. Simplicity is priceless!
I’ve got a little over 1,200 miles on Honey Badger. Probably 80% on dirt. Maintenance in 2021 has been a breeze. I had a rough year getting things figured out in 2020; sinking it in a pond, smashing a turn signal into a tree, thoroughly scaring myself on sand, etc… That all calmed down (or at least I did). In 2021 it’s been sweet and mellow: hop on and ride.
HOWEVER!
I was perusing some TW200 forum and a dude was bitching that the OEM chain stretches. Several others chimed in “yeah, it’s a pain to check the tension all the time”. Huh, that’s weird; mine has been absolutely fine…
WAIT!
Had it been fine? Once I engaged my noggin I realized I had no idea if it was fine or not. I’ve never had a chain driven motorcycle before. I simply never thought to check tension. I’ve slathered it with lube and ignored it otherwise. It seemed fine as I rode it around the hinterland.
What might be the repercussions of my ignorance? (“Repercussions of Ignorance” would make a great heavy metal band name!) It turns out the chain can stretch enough that it’ll pop off the rear sprocket. This can go pear shaped. It might wrap around the rear hub, get wedged in there, and lock up the rear tire. If it happens fast enough you get to enjoy a quick airborne view of the handlebars as you leave the surly bonds of earth behind. A more likely scenario would involve standing by the trail in God knows where; looking at a totally inert bike and wondering why the damn thing decided to drop anchor in mid ride.
I watched the always pleasant and very informative TDubsKid to get the idea:
Had my perfectly running bike been running perfectly, or was I a clueless dipshit? Only one way to find out…
I did most of the work with the tools I carry on my bike all the time. That’s how I’m figuring out what tools I need. This toolbox is forever bolted to my rear rack. (The bottle of Tylenol looks totally uncool!)
The rear chainguard is a plastic hunk held on with two 8mm bolts. I think I’ll swap them with 8mm wingbolts in the future. Then I’ll be able to remove it quickly without tools. If anyone knows why that’s a bad idea, please tell me soon.
I needed to put it on my motorcycle lift and elevate it so I could freely spin the rear wheel. Shame I don’t own a motorcycle lift.
I put a block of wood on top of a little folding step stool and levered the bike on top of that. It was a bit of a hassle for one man but I figure the bike can and will be serviced using tree stumps and whatnot in the future so might as well figure it out now. (Warning: don’t do this unless you installed an aftermarket skid plate! Knowing my personality, I had an aftermarket skid plate on the little bike before its first oil change. One of my wiser moves.)
The tire just barely touched the ground… so I shoveled a divot in to the lawn so it could spin freely. It looks stupid but worked fine. This was just to clean the very dirty chain. 
Then I found out my waterproof toolbox was not waterproof. So I dumped all my shit on the lawn to dry it out.
There’s always distractions. The chickens needed feeding. The little jerks are molting and I’m getting very low production. Today I got ONE EGG! I’ve been feeding 15 little feathered cretins in increments of 50 pound bags of feed… yet I can’t bake a cake! Daaaamn! It’ll change in a few weeks. Until then, the hens are on probation.
I made a quick run to a nearby motorcycle shop to get chain cleaner, higher quality chain lube, and a funky shaped chain brush. It’s the first time the chain has been clean in a good long while. I might as well do it right. Also, it’s a lot easier to clean when suspended and the cover is removed. After it was clean, I lubed it with good lube instead of the shitty chainsaw crap that woodland critters tried to eat back at camp.
I noticed this little “key” link. I haven’t messed with chain since I was a newspaper delivery boy. (Yeah, they once existed.) Back then I had a tool to “break the chain” for my bicycle. I think I had links to reform the chain too. (I’m not sure. It was a long time ago.) I have similar tools for my chainsaw but I don’t want to comingle my tools.
If anyone wants to comment about this, I’m all ears. I think I ought to get a small chain breaker tool and some links and carry them with my bike. I really do go solo and I need to “self rescue” if needed. I want to be able to repair things as needed.
About this time Mrs. Curmudgeon noticed a tool box dumped on the lawn, a motorcycle on a stepstool, over top of a little mudpuddle I’d made with the garden hose. I’d make simple maintenance turn my lawn into a homeless camp. Whoops.
TDubsKid says a dirty chain seems tighter than a clean one. He was right. After it was clean, the chain felt loosey goosey. I took the bike off it’s silly plastic stepstool and put it back on it’s tire. Then I checked my chain tension.
HOLY SHIT! WAAAAAAAAAAY out of spec! Damn!
Here’s a lesson for all time; if you don’t check something you don’t have a fuckin clue if it’s correct. Let me rephrase it in ways that both sides of our emotionally overwrought, bullshit laden, modern political shitshow will appreciate.
- Follow the science (hint: science is not a dude in front of a TV camera!).
- Audit every state!
It took only a few minutes to adjust the “snails” at the rear axle to tighten the chain. I used two largish wrenches to loosen and retighten the axle. I didn’t bother with a torque wrench. I wonder if I should be carrying those two bigger wrenches with me into the hinterland? Adjusting the rear brake is a matter of a wingnut… which is almost laughably simple.
Here it is all re-assembled. It’ll never be this clean again.
I had another idea; I’m thinking of removing the rear passenger footpegs. I can’t imagine any realistic scenario where a hot girl in a bikini wants to take a ride so it’s pointless to have them. Is there some useful aspect I’m not thinking about? Any thoughts on the pros and cons of unused passenger footpegs?
As with all things TW, it was the simplest job in the world. (I’m supposed to have checked every 300 miles all summer.) After I was done, I went on a test ride which recoated the entire bike in mud… as God intended.
I felt pretty impressed with myself. I sounded a lot like Jeremy Clarkson:
Loved this series! I have a klr 650, ride with Beemers who mock me. Don’t care, love my cycle. I’m jealous of the adventure! Didn’t get to go this year since I caught COVID, still recuperating. Enjoy your bike!
It’s been many years since I rode, but I remember times that the passenger foot pegs generated just enough clearance between the side of the bike and the ground to come in real handy when the bike was on its side. If they aren’t causing any trouble, I would leave them. I don’t know about your model, but if they attach the same as the main pegs, they might come in handy if you break a front peg on the trail.
When I was in HS, I had a Honda CB 350.
When I was in the Navy after that- I had several CB 750’s.
Never did I worry about chain tension, except for being sure the chain was lubed.
And never had a problem- even after driving from Gulfport. Ms to Houston, TX several times.
I had a CL 350 and it seemed like I was always having to tighten the chain up. Shaft drive bikes were a godsend.
My cruiser is shaft drive and it’s flawless. I can’t imagine putting up with a chain on any serious highway mile-eating machine.
The chain is a PITA on the little TW but it makes sense on the crude little critter. I’ve heard that replacing with a better chain is the instant cure, but I was thinking I’d “use up” the OEM chain first.
Curmudgeon
You’re a ray of hope in a world gone mad. Your posts help keep things in the proper perspective. Thanks for that.
I don’t know much about motorcycle maintenance (even less about Zen or Art). I haven’t had a bike since Reagan was President.
I wouldn’t bother with chain breaking kit on the road. Just get a spare chain and keep it in your tool kit. Chains are cheap compared to the frustrations of dinking around with tiny little parts and tools, all covered with slick mud, while stranded in some trackless wood as a raging forest fire encroaches. Also have whatever tools are required to put that thing on and rapidly unass the area. Who knows, your tool kit and charming personality may save the day for some unfortunate UTV crew that’s broken down and has only beer cans and bailing wire to effect repairs, but no tools to do the job.
Chain breaking is needless ass pain to me. I quit messing with it for chainsaws. The loops are cheap enough and last a long time on our place. We use a couple chains a year, purchased in bulk. Bar oil and 2 cycle oil are also purchased by the case. Frightening how fast you can burn through that stuff after a storm blows through. Especially when helping out the older neighbors as one ought to do. So no need to buy chain on a spool and make up our own like a fellow might do if he were in the tree cutting business. That’s the logic I applies to your honey badger quandary.
As for unused passenger pegs, I don’t think you should rule out the Disco-loving bikini-clad maiden fleeing from bears or hulking men in black helicopters, while begging for a bearded hero to come to her rescue. Could happen, and what would you do then? Strap her on with your spare chain using a big wrench as a chain binder? Not very gentlemanly, I think.
Seriously, if the pegs need to come off to carry something else that’s bolted on then rip them off and don’t look back. If not, leave them. Someday you might need them so support some bit of memorabilia of an adventure, like an elk quarter that you hold to the bike with a bungee cord (or braided native vines if you prefer that).
Thanks again for sharing your work, and especially for working without a net.
AC:
Chain guard wingnuts – possible, just need to ensure that you can hand-tighten them enough that they don’t vibrate loose when riding.
Chain breaking – you don’t do that with the link that you show. That is a master link, and disassembles to allow you to remove the chain. Ask a mech at the dealer to show you how. If the chain is worn enough and clean enough, you might be able to do it by hand. If not, a special tool or a needle nose pliers may be required. It will make sense once you see how the link comes apart.
Rear footpegs – if you don’t need them, pull them.
Have fun and ride safe!
If you do run into that “Disco-loving bikini-clad maiden fleeing from bears or hulking men in black helicopters” and choose to rescue her. make sure she gets a firm grip on the “saddle horn” as you ride off into the sunset…
Yep, that is a master link. Easy removal with a pair of needle nose pliers.
don’t know about bikes, but do know poultry.
.add about 1/2 teaspoon cayanne pepper to gallon of chicken feed. that will help with getting them laying again. and 16 hours light a day, i use cheep $5 timer in my poultry palace to give then enough light. i wake the little bastords up at 3 am, lights go off about 8 am.
AC, Horror Freight has a decent bike lift for about $300, if you catch them on sale. Right now, I have a ’78 GS550 on mine. Yes, it has the original matching Vetter Windjammer fairing, trunk, & hard bags (which come off & double as luggage).
AC:
What brand is that wood stove you use, and taled about a couple of months ago?
Thanks
It’s a redcamp folding camp stove. I first mentioned it here. I have used it a lot since I bought it and highly recommend it.
I also recommend a trashcan of pallet wood for extended camp outs. It’s ridiculously cheap and easy for base camp type situations.
Thanks. Ordered one.
You’ll love it!
Master link is easy, I just use a small screwdriver to slide it off. Still need the chain tool to remove excess link/s to take up slack. I’d be sure to use a lock washer with the wingnuts, and carry a couple spares. Jon’s right for the most part. I ALWAYS carry tools suitable for my set of wheels. 95% of the roadside repairs are for some other poor dumb sonofabitch. Makes me feel useful. Needed. Competent. God-like.
Once the original chain wears out, investing in an O-ring chain, and new sprockets. The rear aluminum one really show their wear when compared to a new high quality replacement. You can also mess around with the tooth count on the front and rear sprockets to adjust how the bike pulls off the start and top end speed.
Really enjoy reading your posts!
I was planning on getting a new chain when the OEM one wears out. I was hoping the sprockets would be fine. I don’t dislike the OEM tooth counts.
As I learned in the smokey mountains, a loose chain on an ATV can come off, then fold over itself and bind up around the drive sprocket. This not only seizes the engine and freewheels the the tires but also cracks the engine case. Totally uncool miles from camp early in a vacation.
Yep, that’s why I learned proper chain maintenance. I was lucky I didn’t get a harsh lesson! I simply did a little fiddling while parked on my lawn and now it seems pretty routine.