A brace is no good without bits. Modern bits are expensive and lack “history”. So I made a wild ass bid on some “old” bits on e-bay. I think I did OK:
The photo’s not great but the bits seem OK. I’ve got duplicates of a few sizes. There are a few odd ducks (three adjustable spade bits on top left). Some look ready to go right now. A few could use sharpening (not that I know how to sharpen a 100 year old bit). Some have a bit of patina but none have pitting rust. One is slightly bent but only a little. I’ve heard they can be straightened.
I’m stashing them away until winter. Summer’s a busy time for me. Some cold frozen weekend I’m going to sit down with a file (or whatever) and a glass of whiskey. I’ll patiently see if I can sharpen what needs sharpening. If it works out I’ve pretty much got all the “bit and brace” a man needs. If not, at least I had fun shopping and it wasn’t too expensive.
Way to go, AC! I is jealous.
Remember: first sharpen, then whiskey. Don’t ask how I know.
I presume the oar lock and pulley are not some part of an arcane drilling method that should not be attempted by the faint-of-heart?
OT advice: one of those bits is exactly the right size to make a hole to pass a PL-259 connector with juuust enough clearance.
You need one more item. That is a “Yankee” drill. It is a hand powered small, about the size of a medium sized screw driver, drill. The bits are stored in the handle and it is operated by pushing against the work piece. Great for fine work with wood.
I don’t do much “fine” work. I may get an “egg beater” though. Part of my idea was to have non-electric tools for my boat in case I break it while “off grid”.
Yep, Good thought, especially if you can find some screwdriver bits as well as drill bits for it. The predecessor of the small cordless drill, endlessly handy, and while your arm may fall of, you won’t get carpal tunnel, and the battery never goes dead. BTW, last I looked Klein still catalogs one, overpriced though, and used ones are cheap.
You’ll like those adjustables, now that you have a bit brace. There decidedly a low speed device, don’t even ask how I know, but it’s related to how I know about drill motor torque. For the rest, look good. Sharpening is actually pretty easily, just file the inside of the cutting edge with a triangular file. Once you get it reasonably sharp, a stroke or three will keep it that way. Bent should be a basic blacksmithing operation, although I’ve never tried that.
And yeah, you’ll like ’em. 🙂
I’m going to have to order some triangular files. Any pointers on size and file “aggressiveness”. (I don’t know the file equivalent to the modifier “grit” from sandpaper.)
I don’t either, but pretty fine unless they’re really chewed up. Similar to the file you’d sharpen a chainsaw with but triangular. Back in the day we sometimes used those if we were desperate enough on line crews to use our seldom seen pole augers, Heck, I used my Leatherman a couple times. Thankfully we usually had either drill motors or impact wrenches. But it happened, so all the old guys still had one in our bag.
But those round files didn’t do a very good job, but the aggressiveness was about right.
I have used Swiss needle files to sharpen auger and paddle bits in the past. Tell/Grobet are a great brand, expect to pay a premium for them though. #00 will take out the worst nicks than a #0 and a #2 for regular sharpening. A #4 will hone it nicely, if you really want to go crazy a #6 will practically put a mirror finish on it.
Otto Frei has a good selection: https://www.ottofrei.com/search?keywords=grobet#filter:custitem_of_sca_type:Needle$2520Files
Others may like more traditional metal working files, these work for me.
Just a fine file or even a small triangular oil or diamond stone. And always sharpen the inside of the cutting spur and the top face, angled, edge of the cutter. That’s top as it would be boring into the wood.
Get yourself some spoon bits as well and you’ll be making chairs next as well!
I acquired a set of old auger bits some time ago. Though I am well stocked on triangular files, needle files, etc I bought one of these purpose-specific files and it is better suited for the task than anything else:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70693&cat=1,320,43072,43089,70693
I’ll check it out.
Sharpening those kinds of bits is VERY easy. Flat file or triangle file that cuts that kind of iron is all that’s needed. Don’t erase the screw (puller in the middle of the drill) and they work like new again. We used them to drill rafter holes for electrical cable when I was an electrician. Hit a couple of nails and the drill needs touch up. The side point scores the circle and the chisel flat between thepoint and the screw chisels out the center. For a second there, I thought I was looking at my Stash of wood bits. Great Find, especially the adjustable ones. Have fun this winter.
Thanks for the info. This winter I’ll become a drill sharpener guy.